If you’re all about simplicity and everything natural, I’m sure you wouldn’t go anywhere without your face oil!
And if you’re a fan of face oils, you must have tried and loved yourself some squalane.
And also moringa oil.
Have you experienced the fragrance of blended neroli and rose geranium essential oils, though?
If you haven’t, then you’re missing out!
But no worries at all, because one of these days would be the perfect time for you to finally experience this exquisite fragrance.
Yes, you can easily make yourself and your beloved mom – and maybe also you grandma(s)? – this luxurious DIY Neroli Rose Moringa and Squalane Face Oil fpr this year’s Mother’s day.
Ingredients
1. Jojoba oil
INCI: Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil.
The sebum-like structure, noncomedogenicity, anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties are only a few of proven jojoba oil skin care benefits. As an organic skincare formulator, I love jojoba oil for its long shelf life, stability, relatively high-temperature resistance, and almost-nonexistent scent. All of which contribute to its versatility in formulations.
What I’m using here is organic, non-GMO jojoba oil. If you stay here long enough, you’ll find the video tutorial near the end of this post. There you’ll find out that I finished the first bottle and so had to open up the second bottle of jojoba oil during the formulation. It contains a batch of organic, virgin (unrefined), cold pressed jojoba oil, which originates from Peru.
2. Moringa oil
INCI: Moringa oleifera (moringa) seed oil.
In a study, Cretella and colleagues confirmed the use of Moringa oleifera seed oil as an effective anti-inflammatory agent in inflammatory skin diseases such as psoriasis. Even better, it didn’t exhibit the same adverse effects seen in topical treatment with dexamethasone. In one paper written by Mahmood and colleagues, Moringa oleifera seed oil is said to have a high oxidative stability. In other words, moringa oil can have relatively longer shelf life compared to many other natural oils. Having high amount of oleic acid, this oil has also been said to improve dry, aging skin.
Easily penetrating into the first layers of our skin, the exotic moringa oil doesn’t leave that greasy, oily look and skin feel when applied on the skin. It really is one of my favorite oils due to its luxurious, velvety, non-greasy skin feel. To top it all off, it also seems to improve the skin hydration whenever it’s applied on the skin. As if all that is not enough, moringa oil is one of those natural perfume fixative, hence its great reputation in the world of perfumery.
What I’ve got in hands here is a bottle of halal-certified organic moringa oil, which has been locally sourced from the Maluku Islands (Moluccas), the far east islands in Indonesia. It’s got that characteristic moringa oil scent. Not sure if you’d like it or not, but I’ve grown accustomed to this subtle nutty and “green” scent. The later addition of neroli and sweet geranium essential oils to this oil truly makes a perfect fragrance in the end.
3. (Plant-derived) Squalane
INCI: Squalane.
Squalene – with an E – is a polyunsaturated hydrocarbon which can be found in certain fish oils, especially shark liver oil. I know, I know, don’t be panicking just yet. Because although high amount of squalene has been found in shark liver oil, some vegetable oils also do contain relatively smaller amounts of it. The other sources of squalene include prokaryotes, yeast and microalgae.
And you know what; squalene is one of the major constituents of our sebum. Along with it, squalane also naturally occurs in small quantities in the same lipid layers of skin. Together, they both prevent moisture loss while restoring our skin’s suppleness and flexibility. Unfortunately, though, its production starts to decline as we embark on that life-changing 30s journey. And that’s exactly why people have been searching for the way around it. Hence the rising of squalane in the world of skin care.
Squalane is a saturated derivative of squalene and also found in the earlier-said sources. More specifically, squalane is manufactured by catalytic hydrogenation of squalene. Why all the process, though? The answer lies in the molecular structure of squalene. The multiple double bonds in squalene causes it to be too unstable for practical uses, e.g. cosmetic uses. The hydrogenation of squalene results in squalane, which has been known as a very stable cosmetic ingredient.
The hydrogenation of squalene results in squalane, which has been known as a very stable cosmetic ingredient.
With its extraordinary physical and chemical stability, squalane has a high boiling point (210 – 215 oC) and also incredible resistance to chemical oxidation. These are all GREAT news for organic skin care formulators like me, because these properties are what we’d need to create a stable product with a reasonably long shelf life.
*Sources: Kim and Karadeniz; Mcphee and colleagues.
Plant-based squalane really is one of my favorite natural skin care ingredients! In addition to those desirable properties listed above, it is colorless, odorless, gives velvety, non-greasy skin feel and look when it’s applied on the skin. It’s unapologetically versatile! Plus, my sensitive skin LOVES it! No irritation, no redness, no breakouts; only feeling-dehydrated, supple, smooth, soothed, dewy-looking skin all around!
What I’ve got in hands here is, of course, plant-based, organic, vegan, cruelty-free squalane which originates from Japan. Instead of olive oil, the squalane was derived from sugarcane, which is an incredibly renewable source due to its fast-growing and highly repurposable natures.
4. Natural vitamin E
INCI: Tocopherol.
Natural vitamin E in the form of mixed tocopherols is a staple ingredient in the world of natural and organic skincare formulation. It is very often used as an antioxidant in each formulation that contains oil phase in it. Antioxidants prevent any unwanted oxidation process, hence improved stability and thus longer shelf life of the skincare product. In other words, antioxidants help us create safe, stable skincare products with acceptable shelf life.
Since we’re creating a face oil here, the addition of an antioxidant system is necessary. Here we use mixed tocopherols to help stabilize and prolong the shelf life of our DIY Neroli Rose Moringa & Squalane Face Oil.
Not so long ago, I managed to purchase this sunflower-based, alpha-tocopherol-rich vitamin E which originates from India. Since the supplier provides me with the ingredient’s CoA, I can share with you the vitamin E’s composition here:
Total tocopherol: ~1000 IU/g.
Fatty acid composition:
Alpha-Tocopherol: 79.10%.
D-beta-Tocopherol & D-gamma-Tocopherol: 10.05%.
D-delta-Tocopherol: 10.41%.
I talked so much about natural vitamin E in my Cocoa Rose Massage Bars blog post, you can start getting to know with this wonderful ingredient there. However, if you’re ready for more detailed explanation about vitamin E, you can read it from this insightful article on vitamin E.
5. German chamomile essential oil
INCI: Matricaria recutita (German chamomile) flower oil.
Well-known for its anti-inflammatory property, the blue German chamomile oil has also been found to possess both antimicrobial and antioxidant properties (Sharafzadeh & Alizadeh).
We know that intrinsic aging is inevitable. But do you know that extrinsic aging plays a VERY HUGE role in premature aging? This really is good news for us, because this means there are so many things that we can do solve this age-old problem. For instance, we can modify our diet and lifestyle. We can do something to protect our skin from excessive UV exposure. We can also apply the right, nurturing skincare products and avoid applying anything that would unnecessarily damage our skin. And, of course, antioxidants help, too! They help inhibit the production of free radicals that damage our cells, thus slowing down the aging process
And since inflammation is our body’s defense mechanism against disease and pain, it has become a part of our daily life since the very beginning. Fortunately, nature still provides us with anti-inflammatory ingredients, such as German chamomile, that may soothe these defensive reactions. They help to stop that vicious loop of inflammation, which would otherwise cause further skin damages. Putting an end to this destructive loop will in turn save our skin from those aging-accelerating stresses.
In this formulation, I’m using German chamomile that originates from Egypt. The aroma is sweet and earthy – not my personal favorite. But in small quantity, as a mid note, it will only lend and enhance the sweet note in this DIY neroli rose face oil. Not overpowering at all, which is all good! I also noticed that its chamazulene percentage is rather low, i.e. 2.68% as opposed to the usual 5%; this explains its relatively lighter blue color.
6. Rose geranium essential oil
INCI: Pelargonium graveolens roseum (rose geranium) leaf oil.
Known for its sebum-balancing property, rose geranium essential oil has widely been used in skincare products for both acneic and dry, mature skin. In addition to that, two separate studies confirmed the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of this oil (Hamidpour and colleagues; Boukhatem and colleagues). By this point, we all know that together, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties create a powerful anti-aging synergy.
If you’ve had a chance to read my older posts on this heavenly rose mask and these sassy cocoa rose massage bars, you’ll have known the LOW regulated dermal limit of rose otto (Damask rose) oil. That is 0.02% in leave-on products. It really is that low that it could trigger somebody’s FOMO… nah. Wait – what? Seriously, though, 0.02% would easily go undetected unless you’ve got a super nose.
No worries, people, rose geranium essential oil comes to our rescue! Having a close resemblance to that of rose otto oil, the aroma of rose geranium EO possesses that rose-like note, but it’s more heady and more obvious in its sweetness. Rose otto oil fills up the base note, whereas rose geranium oil fills up that mid note up to the top note of an aromatic blend.
The rose geranium essential oil I’m using here originates from Kannauj, which has been known as “the perfume capital of India”. It was extracted by a steam distillation process. The supplier claimed that their old plantation has adopted a sustainability principle. Which includes educating the farmers on how to maintain soil’s healthy and biodiversity. And also re-planting 10 units of plant for each harvested unit. Another thing that I love about this supplier is that they provide the CoA and GC/MS test result for each ingredient.
7. Neroli essential oil
INCI: Citrus aurantium (neroli) flower oil.
Neroli essential oil has always been thought to rejuvenate and regenerate the skin. Not only that, in a study, Khodabakhsh and colleagues found that this oil possesses biologically active constituents that have significant activity against acute and especially chronic inflammation. We talked about this earlier, so we know that anti-inflammatory compounds can really save us and our skin from excessive stress which would accelerate the aging process otherwise. In other words, anti-inflammatory ingredients, such as neroli essential oil, will definitely have its role in an anti-aging skincare product.
I purchased a the neroli essential oil from the same supplier that sells the vitamin E and rose geranium essential oil. With their ethical approach and transparency, I couldn’t ask for more, really. And if you haven’t had a chance to experience this oil’s fragrance, then I’d recommend you to try whenever you’ve got a chance. The luxuriously sweet, floral, fresh and somewhat-citrusy aroma will uplift and brighten up the heaviest, stagnant heart. Together with rose geranium essential oil, this luxurious oil will create that perfect, heavenly, inspiring aromatic blend you wouldn’t forget!
Now that we’re done talking about our beautiful ingredients here, let’s start creating, shall we?
DIY Neroli Rose Moringa & Squalane Face Oil Recipe
Ingredients, in grams (for a 150 g batch):
- 93 g jojoba oil
- 27 g moringa oil
- 27.45 g (plant-based) squalane
- 1.2 g tocopherol (natural vitamin E)
- 0.3 g German chamomile essential oil
- 0.6 g rose geranium essential oil
- 0.45 g neroli essential oil
Here I’ll also share with you the recipe in terms of percentages, so that you can decide on the batch size for yourself.
Ingredients, in percentages:
- 62% jojoba oil
- 18% moringa oil
- 18.3% (plant-based) squalane
- 0.8% tocopherol (natural vitamin E)
- 0.2% German chamomile essential oil
- 0.4% rose geranium essential oil
- 0.3% neroli essential oil
This recipe contains 0.07% linalool, 0.02% limonene, 0.06% geraniol and 0.1% citronellol, which occur naturally in essential oils.
Curious to know how I got to these percentages? Please feel free to ask me any questions in the comment section below!
Directions:
- Weigh the jojoba oil in a beaker.
- Weigh the moringa oil in the same beaker.
- Add the squalane to the oils, and then gently blend these base oils.
- Weigh the vitamin E, German chamomile, rose geranium and neroli essential oils in another (smaller) beaker. Also gently stir the aromatic blend.
- Add the aromatic blend to the base oils.
- Blend the oils thoroughly.
- Pour the face oil into the amber glass pipette bottle (preferably the one that comes with a seal).
- Stick the printed label onto the bottle. This label contains information about the ingredients, quantity, expiry date, as well as the directions for use and storage. *Please feel free to download the printable label below.
HOW TO USE + TIPS + CAUTION
- Firstly cleanse your face beforehand. Apply your favorite mild and hydrating toner or hydrosol. And then spread 3 – 4 drops of this nourishing and aromatic DIY Neroli Rose Face Oil across your face.
- Actually, very gently massage your face while applying the face oil. Chizu Saeki shared her expertise and mindful, minimalistic approach in beauty and skin care in her book, including how to give your face a very well deserved massage.
- As you see earlier, I listed all the naturally occurring allergens/sensitisers above (0.07% linalool, 0.02% limonene, 0.06% geraniol and 0.1% citronellol). These percentages are waaaaaaay below the recommended the dermal limits. Moreover, we’re adding vitamin E, which acts as an antioxidant in this recipe. This way, the peroxides will be kept at the lowest possible level. However, avoid the use of essential oils if you know your skin is allergic to them. Please do a patch test before spreading the face oil across your face.
- Turn your skin care routine into a mini spa session by adding this beautiful and easy 3-ingredients Botanical Facial Steam into the routine. By adding this super relaxing routine, it would be 4-step instead of your usual 3-step skin care routine. Cleanse your face, apply your mild, soothing and hydrating toner, very gently steam your face with the flowers and herb, and lastly, also very gently massage your face with the aromatic, nourishing and hydrating face oil.
I’m glad you made it here to finally see this very useful DIY Neroli Rose Face Oil video tutorial:
Not that hard, right?
Especially when you think about those skin-loving ingredients, the face oil’s luxurious skin feel and exquisite fragrance.
It’s totally worth it, don’t you think?
We’d only want the best for our queens (moms and grandmas), afterall, right?
As it is with life; enjoy the whole process, graceful people!
I wish you a joyful and meaningful Mother’s day.
Love and best wishes,
Ella
Easy 3-Ingredients Botanical Facial Steam to Zen Your Mind
