Got that itchy, chapped skin that could even bleed from all that dryness?
From dry air to the strong wind; winter could be harsh not only on our physical and mental well-being, but also – and particularly – on our skin.
Being two of the most winter-exposed areas of the body, we’d consequently need to pay extra attention our hand and facial skin.
Here are 5 of the best natural winter skincare ingredients to treat and take care of your super dehydrated winter skin.
1. Shea butter
Contains huge amount of “healing” fraction
The famous shea butter, whose INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii, especially the unrefined one contains about 90% of saponifiable triglycerides, i.e. stearic and oleic acids. This saponifiable fraction is what contributes to most of shea butter’s moisturizing properties. The rest is the nonsaponifiable fraction composed of bioactive substances, which are responsible for the butter’s healing medicinal properties (Esuoso, Lutz, Bayer, Kutubuddin, 2000). All of which makes shea butter truly special, since about 10% is considered as huge amount of healing fraction, particularly when compared to the “normal” 1% (or less) healing fraction of other seed oils. The larger the healing fraction, the better the quality of shea butter (Goreja, 2004).
A great skin emollient and moisturizer
Unrefined shea butter by itself, with its buttery texture that melts at near body temperature, is very capable of being a great skin emollient and moisturizer (Hee, 2011). It has good water-binding properties and absorbs rapidly into the skin, thus its extensive use in the natural and organic skincare world (Hemat, Principles of Orthomolecularism, 2004). In the 2012 article ‘Winter Itch’ written by Sheperd, the use of shea butter was recommended in the repairing of dry inflamed skin caused by dermatitis and as night time hands and feet moisturizer.
As if all that is not enough for the evidence, a study conducted by Poelman, Richard and Machado published in 1988 shows that a daily topical application of shea butter does maintain a very good moisturization of the skin’s superficial layers.
Good at preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
Katie Bird wrote down in her 2009 article that a group of researcher found that shea butter is actually very good at preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) – even better than mineral oil in this regard. They also found that shea butter contributes to a higher increase in moisture levels compared to when mineral oil was used for the same purpose.
Efficient emollient and anti-inflammatory ingredient for eczema sufferers
And if you’re an eczema sufferer trying to survive every winter in your life, here is good news for you: Belibi, Stechschulte and Olson found that a week of daily topical application of shea butter/Vaseline shows that the efficacy of shea butter as an emollient for eczema is better than that of Vaseline. Moreover, the use of shea butter also results in higher degree of smoothness compared to that of Vaseline. As also described there, the devastating eczema is a pruritic chronic inflammatory skin disease, in which epidermal barrier dysfunction and reduced essential fatty acids have been reported. Knowing all this, it would totally make sense that the topical application of shea butter could improve eczema, since the anti-inflammatory effects of shea butter have been demonstrated by Verma, Chakrabarti, Das and Gautam through their study in this topic.
What a wonderful gift from the nature shea butter is, right?
2. Baobab oil
The “Tree of Life”
Baobab (Adansonia digitata) seed oil originates from the beautifully quirky baobab adansonia tree (yes, Rafiki’s tree house!). The tree has been called “Tree of life” due to its extraordinary adaptation to its environment, which renders its significance to anyone who lives near its shade. It lives “forever”, stores water and provides foods, medicinal compounds and all sorts of raw materials for people and animals alike.
Baobab oil grows its popularity worldwide in the last couple of years. And there are strong, valid reasons for it.
Softens, protects, restores, moisturises
The oil’s high content of linoleic and oleic acids has been known to soften the skin and restore and moisturise the epidermis. it is also a valuable carrier oil in the cosmetic industry due to its natural ability to form protective thin tissue (regenerated by the rich fatty acids), covering the skin cells (Komane, Vermaak, Kamatou, Summers, & Viljoen, 2017).
Non-irritant
In the same paper, Komane et al. also confirmed the non-irritancy property of baobab oil, which is one of the important characteristics for any natural winter skincare ingredients.
A moisturizer and healer that rapidly and effectively penetrates our skin and significantly recovers skin dryness
Baobab oil possesses a huge potential to moisturise the skin and helps in the healing process of dermatoses and sunburns – thanks to its high content of linoleic acid. And to confirm it all, Komane and colleagues also found that the topical use of baobab oil does result in significant recovery of skin dryness. Perhaps these qualities could partly be attributed to the oil’s small molecular structure, which in turn makes it easier to be absorbed by our skin. Also add to the list its high content in palmitic and oleic acids that have been reported to be effective percutaneous absorption enhancers (Bazongo et al., 2014). Hence, rapid and effective absorption.
Significantly reduces TEWL and provides skin hydration
As we all know, the humidity level drops during winter. Top it off with the cold weather and strong winds, the water content in our skin evaporates so quickly. That’s why other than the moisture level, we should also take transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and moisture retention (hydration) into consideration. They really are two of the most important factors when determining which natural winter skincare ingredients to use.
Good news, good news: Komane et al. found that the topical application of baobab oil significantly reduces TEWL over the test period of 12 days. This totally makes sense since a healthy skin should have a healthy barrier function which depends on the lipids that surround corneocytes. This means the lipid content reduction could lead to an impaired skin barrier, which would lead to an increase in TEWL (Bouwstra and Ponec, 2006). Baobab oil’s high fatty acids content makes it a wonderful oil to reduce TEWL in a compromised skin barrier. This in turn will bring the skin barrier function back to its normal, healthy state (Kamatou et al. 2011).
Here is another good news for you: baobab oil got second place in the hydration category, with the other two contenders being Vaseline intensive care lotion and liquid paraffin. Which is not bad at all, taking into consideration that Vaseline intensive care lotion (VICL) is actually a water-in-oil emulsion. Consequently, VICL and baobab oil works differently on the skin.
Repairs skin barrier, thus restores skin health
By now, we all know that baobab oil is rich in essential fatty acids, and so it has the ability to penetrate into the layers of epidermis. This way, this beautiful oil is capable of restoring the integrity of the skin cell membrane (Johnson, 1981); Jemec and Wulf, 1999). The high concentration of linoleic and oleic acids in baobab oil allows it to mimic the three skin mechanisms of hydration, reinforcing the functionality of lipidic mantle with lipid-liking substances. In results, this increases the structure’s capacity to bind water through the water-liking substances. All of which improve the skin’s defense mechanism through skin barrier repair (Komane et al., 2017).
At this point, we would stop doubting the popularity of this wonderful oil. It is non-irritating, moisturising, hydrating and moisture-controlling.
Unique, balanced composition that contributes to the healing properties
To top it all off, Engels and Gladbach reported the unique balance in saturated, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated acid composition. This results in baobab oil’s revitalising, moisturising, restructuring – and maybe other pharmacological properties, too!
Why wouldn’t we all love this magical oil?
3. Sunflower oil
You might feel like you’ve heard enough of sunflower oil. But hang in there now, because we’re about to find out why. Here are some of the strong, valid reasons for the frequent use of sunflower (Helianthus annuus) seed oil.
And of course these would be the very reasons why we’ve got to include this lovely ingredient onto our best ‘natural winter skincare ingredients’ list!
Lowers transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
in 1975, Prottey, Hartop and Press conducted an experiment on 2 groups of subjects. One was the group of subjects with essential fatty acid (EFA) deficiency caused by chronic malabsorption. The other group displayed no malabsorption issue.
The study shows that the 2-weeks application of sunflower oil rich in linoleic acid markedly increased the level of linoleic acid in the subjects’ epeidermal lecithin. In addition to that, the rate of TEWL significantly lowered and the scaly lesions disappeared. On the other hand, no changes were observed on the area of the skin where oleic acid-rich olive oil was applied.
However, the control patients who didn’t suffer from EFA deficiency showed no changes with the topical application of sunflower oil.
Repairs compromised skin barrier health and improves skin hydration
As if the authors were trying to complement the previous study, a 2013 paper studied on the effect of olive oil and sunflower oil on the adult skin barrier. They recruited 19 adult volunteers with and without a history of atopic dermatitis for this purpose. The study shows that the 4-weeks application of olive oil caused a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema. On the contrary, the topical application of sunflower oil preserved the stratum corneum integrity, did not cause erythema, and improved skin hydration in the same volunteers.
No side effects!
These findings might explain and affirm the versatility and frequent use of sunflower oil in the cosmetics industry. More particularly in the world of natural and organic skincare.
What’s not to love, right?
Speaking of versatile natural winter skincare ingredients, you might want to check out this comprehensive article about jojoba oil. Jojoba oil is another special, versatile, skin-loving ingredient we would need during every dehydrating winter!
4. Aloe vera
- Aloe oil
This is a macerated oil made by infusing the aloe leaves in the chosen carrier oil(s). By doing this, the oil-soluble compounds could be extracted from the leaves, into the oil. Hence, the healing aloe oil.
Aloe oil is especially good for sensitive and irritated skin. It hydrates the skin and is recommended for after-UV or after-sun skin care to lessen the redness. This oil has the reputation of penetrating the skin four times faster than water. For that reason, it finds its applications in cosmetic formulations. Particularly for aging, acne and inflammatory conditions (Price and Price, ‘Carrier Oils for Aromatherapy and Massage’, 4th Edition).
- Aloe gel (Aloe barbadensis leaf extract)
Alleviates skin dryness and helps with wound healing
A reaction involving aloe gel’s polysaccharide called glucomannan significantly increases collagen synthesis after topical and oral application. The application of aloe gel modifies the scar tissue’s structure and composition. So much so that it accelerates wound contraction and increases the breaking strength of the resulting scar tissue. Aloe gel oral and topical treatment also increases synthesis of hyaluronic acid and dermatan sulfate in the healing wound tissue (Surjushe, Vasani, & Saple, 2008). Hyaluronic acid could speed up wound healing and reduce wrinkles and fine lines appearance by alleviating dry skin. And the polysaccharide called dermatan sulfate involves in the activities related to coagulation and cell growth.
Obviously, the alleviation of skin dryness would help a lot here. Not only that, though. Considering your cracked – maybe to the point of bleeding – winter skin, wound healing would be of high importance here, too. Skin dryness exacerbates wound formation and vice versa. And this vicious cycle would then result in prolonged skin barrier impairment if not addressed.
Anti-inflammatory
As in winter the air becomes drier, inflammatory conditions such as eczema would usually surface during winter. Also think of those bleeding wound caused by your excessively dry, cracked winter skin. The process of wound healing would pass degrees of inflammation. This is where we would require the anti-inflammatory agents, so that the condition wouldn’t turn unnecessarily ugly. These winter complications could definitely find relief with the use of anti-inflammatory agents contained in natural winter skincare ingredients.
Aloe vera inhibits the pathway and processes taken to induce an inflammatory reaction (Surjushe et al., 2008). Hutter and colleagues also found success in isolating a new anti-inflammatory agent from the aloe gel extracts. It displays an anti-inflammatory activity equal to hydrocortisone (steroid used to treat inflammatory allergic reaction) at the same dosage. However, unlike 200 mg/ear of hydrocortisone, this isolated agent did not cause 50% reduction in thymus. To provide the full picture here, thymus is a unique organ that produces immune cells. As it continuously shrink after puberty, the produced immune cells decreases in amount. This would consequently lead to a higher risk of infection and cancer.
Isn’t it amazing that the healing properties of aloe gel doesn’t come with an abundance in side effects?
Hydrates, moisturizes and protects our skin from the external environment
The high mucopolysaccharides content in aloe extract (with and without glycerin) helps binding moisture into the skin. Hence, improved skin hydration. Aloe extract also stimulates the fibroblast which produces collagen and elastin fibers, making the skin more elastic and less brittle. Furthermore, it softens the skin by sticking the superficial flaking epidermal cells together. Additionally, the existing amino acids soften the hardened skin cells (Surjushe et al., 2008).
West and Zhu conducted an experiment on 30 adult females with occupational dry skin, with or without irritant contact dermatitis. These participants were factory assembly-line workers with inevitable repeated superficial skin trauma. Such occupational exposure trauma that contributes to their dry, irritated, emollient-dependent skin. They studied the effects of using dry-coated aloe vera gloves that provide a gradual delivery of aloe vera gel to skin. The results show that the aloe vera gloves improved the participants’ skin integrity, decreased the fine wrinkles appearance and erythema.
And one more thing: the mucilaginous physical property of aloe gel forms protective barrier between our skin and external environment. This would in turn facilitate the moisture retention and allow the skin to heal in time and more easily.
Aloe vera should definitely be on the list of 5 best natural winter skincare ingredients, don’t you agree?
5. Oat
- Oat oil
Decreases transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hence the skin barrier health improvement
Oat (Avena sativa) oil consists of 36-46% linoleic acid and 28-40% oleic acid (Youngs, 1978). Oleic acid alone could actually alter and even disrupt our skin barrier. However, as you see earlier, the linoleic acid content surpasses that of oleic acid. Fortunately, this positively contributes to the final effect of oat oil on skin barrier repair.
Hansen and Jensen found that the 300 mg-per-day supplementation of esterified linoleic acid on EFA-deficient rats did show a decrease in their initially high transepidermal water loss (TEWL). As you may already know by now, a decrease in TEWL would improve the skin barrier health.
At this point, I should say that I really cannot stress enough the importance of skin barrier health. But I know you know it already by now. Right?
- Colloidal oatmeal
Colloidal is derived from oat (Avena sativa) grains that have been ground into a very fine powder. The powder has a complex chemical composition, which includes polysaccharides, lipids, proteins, flavonoids, minerals, and vitamins. All of which contribute to its moisturizing, cleansing, antioxidative, and anti-inflammatory properties (Criquet, Roure, Dayan, Nollent, & Bertin, 2012).
Low irritation and allergenic potential
With all the dehydration, dryness, itch and cracks, an allergic reaction would be the very last thing we would need during winter. Thankfully, Criquet et al. conducted a study that would offer us a solution to this problem. The study shows that the irritation and allergenic potential of a diverse range of oatmeal-containing personal care products is low.
Provides skin hydration
On the paper, Criquet et al. also informs that colloidal oatmeal tends to form an occlusive film that binds water in the stratum corneum. And that this is the very reason to the colloidal oatmeal’s skin-hydrating properties.
Sustainable moisturizing effect
The very same study reveals that these oatmeal-containing products displayed a sustainable moisturizing effect on dry skin. The authors observed a significant moisturizing effect of an oatmeal-containing cream on dry skin through the application period. It was a moisturizing effect which would then lingers for 2 weeks afterwards.
An increased hydration and a reduced amount of surface dead skin cells (scales) both indicated this moisturizing effect. Criquet and colleagues also did the clinical evaluation and subjective self-evaluation to further prove the point.
Helps repairing the skin barrier
A 2009 study that involved 50 atopic dermatitis patients suggested the application of oatmeal-based occlusive cream and oatmeal-glycerin cleanser twice in a day, for 8 weeks. The patients observed improvement both in the dermatitis-affected area and the non-affected area. This includes a decrease in itchiness, an improved skin texture, decreased discomfort and an overall improved look and feel.
As you may already know, an atopic dermatitis sufferer has a compromised skin barrier. This would consequently increase the rate of water loss and allow an easy entry for inflammatory triggers, allergens, and irritants. External factors could trigger a flare-up, resulting in a devastatingly intense itchiness. And yep, you guessed it right; the end result would be a further breakdown of the skin barrier.
That’s why the skin care routine for these poor souls should not be stretched too far away from mild products. And also fragrance-free products, because this sensitive skin does not need any other potential irritants and allergens. These products need to essentially focus on hydration and the maintenance of skin barrier.
Apparently, oatmeal-based skin care products provide the much needed occlusives, skin protectants and other barrier protectors. Especially, but not limited to this type of compromised skin. The paper explains the skin condition and the positive effects of oatmeal-based skincare so well.
Anti-itch activity
You know doctors would usually prescribe oral antihistamine for your super itchy allergic reaction. Oatmeal contains a phenol called avenanthramides, which reduces contact hypersensitivity, neurogenic inflammation, as well as histamine-mediated itch. This would be why people have used oatmeal and oatmeal-containing skincare products to decrease itching. Significantly, too (Pazyar, Yaghoobi, Kazerouni, & Feily, 2012).
Skin protection
Did you know that sun can be equally strong in all seasons? Which means that we would also need to protect our skin from excessive sun exposure during winter. Though it’s hardly happening at all, right? But still. Imagine go skiing on the top of the slope – the thin atmosphere could make the UV rays more intense. And multiply these effects with the thin atmosphere at high altitude!
You could be less weary now, though, because the flavonoids in oats absorb ultraviolet A (320-370 nm). Even the USFDA started regulating the use of colloidal oatmeal as a skin protectant (Pazyar et al., 2012).
Again, according to Pazyar and colleagues, the high concentration of starches and beta-glucans in oat are responsible for its protective and water-holding functions. And here we are, talking about skin hydration one more time. Because, you know, skin hydration is an incredibly important factor in the maintenance of skin barrier and its function. The very factor that makes oatmeal one great moisturizer for dry, sensitive skin.
So there you are: 5 best natural winter skincare ingredients for your dry, chapped skin!
Which one(s) of these amazing ingredients have you tried before?
Have you tried them all?
Which one is your favorite?
What does your winter skin experience feel like?
What are your personal 5 best natural winter skincare ingredients?
Please feel free to share your thoughts and experiences in dealing with dry, cracked winter skin.
Who knows, it might help many winter skin sufferers around the globe!
Love and best wishes,
Ella
An Introvert Winter Daydreaming in the Tropics
